Real Tanning vs. Fake Tanning: Which is Safer?

An in-depth, microscopic, review of our bodies’ reactions to UV rays and the chemicals in tanning products.

Reading time: 6-7 minutes

Last month, I spent a week in Hawaii. While I was thrilled to explore the stunning mountains and the gorgeous, blue waters, what I was most excited about was soaking up the Hawaiian sun. My goal was to achieve the perfect, bronzy tan as quickly as possible. After a day at the Honolulu beach, where the UV index was 11, I felt impatient with how slowly my tan was developing. The next day, I discovered a "local Hawaiian secret": Maui Babe Browning Lotion. Tempted by the promise of a quicker tan, I contemplated whether to tan naturally or use the lotion, unsure of its potential impact on my skin health.

With only a few weeks left of summer, the pressure is on to achieve that coveted, glowy, sun-kissed, tan before school starts. While the sun is shining bright, it’s tempting to soak up the high UV rays. However, it’s important to weigh the health risks of direct sun exposure. On the other hand, self-tanners can give you an instant, even glow without the harmful effects of UV exposure, though they come with their own set of challenges, like the chemicals in bronzing lotions.

So the real question is: which is safer, real tan or fake tan?

Real Tanning

It’s tempting to want to bask in the sun’s rays, especially when the perfect tan could be so easily achieved when the UV is high. However, tanning will never be 100% safe. It’s crucial to remember the potential dangers that come with prolonged sun exposure. By tanning, you are increasing your risk of getting skin cancer. The three forms of skin cancer are basil cell carcinoma (BCC), the most common; squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), the second most common; and melanoma, the most dangerous.

How skin cancer develops:

When your skin is exposed to UV radiation, the rays damage the cells that make the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis. Usually, our bodies react to damaged cells by increasing blood flow to the affected areas (which is what makes sunburn look red). Melanocytes, which are the cells that make our skin color, protect our skin by producing melanin (the pigment making the skin darker) to block the harmful UV rays from reaching the nucleus of our cells. However, melanocytes’ protection only goes so far, therefore, in some extreme cases, prolonged sun exposure could allow UV rays to break through the melanin barrier and damage the DNA (Deoxyribonucleic Acid) in our skin cells. Damaged DNA will lead to uncontrolled cell division, which results in cancerous cells.

SCC: A microscopic view of cancerous skin cells in the skin.

BCC and SCC are the most common forms of skin cancer, yet least aggressive, whereas melanoma is the rarest form, but most malignant since the cancerous cells can grow deeper than skin level and infect other organs in the body.

The fact is, prolonged sun exposure will never be safe for you. Even with SPF and melanocytes, their protection only goes so far. Although it’s tempting, the bronzy look will never be worth it if it means risking your health.

Fake tanning

As we just learned, real tanning is too risky for one’s health. Now, let’s look into the risks behind fake tanning. Many of you have probably heard about tanning beds, tanning lotions, or oils.

Tanning Beds

While emphasizing on the dangers of the sun’s UV, we mustn’t overlook the power of tanning beds’ UV. Many believe that a tanning bed is safer than exposure of the sun, however, this ISN’T true. While tanning beds may not give you a burning red tan, they’re guaranteed to penetrate more powerful UV rays. To understand how tanning beds are more powerful, you need to first understand the different UV rays. There are three kinds of UV radiation: UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVA, the most powerful, causes skin cancer and damages the deeper layers of the skin; UVB, also very dangerous, damages the top layers of your skin; whilst UVC, is the least harmful form of UV radiation.

Tanning beds are proven more dangerous than sun rays. Don’t be fooled by the fact tanning beds are indoors, because they actually penetrate three times more powerful UVA rays than the sun does. This means your skin is put in higher risk since only a couple minutes in a tanning bed will do the same damage as a couple hours in the sun.

Tanning Lotions and Oils

Many dermatologists say that tanning oils are a safer alternative for tanning beds or outdoor tanning. However, this isn’t the case with all tanning products. Some products contain toxic chemicals that can act as carcinogens, or, agents that cause cancer. Here are some ingredients to look out for in fake tanners.

  1. Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) - A big indicator of whether your tanning product is harmful is if it contains mineral oil. Mineral oil contains petroleum and causes your pores to clog up, leading to acne breakouts. This product also contains chemicals that can cause cancer.

    Avoid: Maui Babe Browning Lotion, Banana Boat Tanning Oil, Hawaiian Tropic Dark Tanning Oil, Australian Gold Dark Tanning Accelerator Lotion.

  2. Formaldehyde - This chemical compound is in many products as it helps darken your skin quickly. Even just a little bit of this dangerous chemical can irritate your throat, skin, and eyes. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen so very high levels of it will greatly increase your risk of getting cancer.

    Avoid products that include “formaldehyde” or “formaldehyde-releasing preservatives”.

  3. Hydroquinone (benzene-1) - Hydroquinone is found in some tanning products because it prevents the user from looking orange. However, it acts as a carcinogen when exposed to sunlight. This chemical is toxic as it can lead to liver problems, eye irritation, and swelling around the face. Hydroquinone is also very dangerous because it prevents the production of melanin, exposing your skin cells to direct sunlight.

    Avoid all tanning products containing this chemical that require sun exposure.

So which is safer?

While I’m not a professional dermatologist, I can guarantee you, there’s no such thing as a “healthy” tan in the sun. Exposure all any form of UV radiation puts your skin at risk of potentially getting cancer. Trust me, it’s better to be safe than sorry, especially when melanoma is the hardest skin cancer to diagnose. I recommend to avoid prolonged sun exposure in high UV, as well as tanning beds, and all tanning products that contain the listed chemicals above. Before using a tanning product, make sure to read all the reviews and the ingredients to ensure that you’re not putting your health at risk.

Make sure to stay healthy this summer and wear SPF!


Works Cited

“7 of the Worst Ingredients in Self-Tanner.” Beauty by Earth, 28 July 2024, https://www.beautybyearth.com/blogs/blog/7-of-the-worst-ingredients-in-self-tanner.

“Are Sunless Tanning Products Safe?” Harvard Health, Harvard Medical School, https://www.health.harvard.edu/womens-health/are-sunless-tanning-products-safe. Accessed 23 July 2024.

“Formaldehyde.” Verywell Health, Dotdash Meredith, 28 July 2024, https://www.verywellhealth.com/formaldehyde-7480272.

“How Many Types of UV Radiation Are There and What’s the Difference Between Them?” Germiled, n.d., https://www.germiled.com/en/how-many-types-of-uv-radiation-are-there-and-whats-the-difference-between-them/.

“Skin Cancer Information.” The Skin Cancer Foundation, https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information. Accessed 23 July 2024.

“Squamous Cell Carcinoma (SCC).” CBD Skin Cancer, n.d., https://cbdskincancer.com.au/skin-cancer/squamous-cell-carcinoma-scc/.

“Understanding Squamous Cell Carcinoma.” YouTube, uploaded by CBD Skin Cancer, 28 July 2024, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTRAkVfEbbU.

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